Cambodia: Angkor, 2005
In 2005, my son, David and my mate, Jeff spent two months in Hong Kong, Vietnam, Cambodia, and Thailand. This would be David’s first trip to his other homeland (Cambodia) and Jeff’s and my first return to Vietnam since the war! I was inspired to post this by reading a travelogue on Vietnam and Cambodia written by Jean’s friend, Brigette. Summer 2005:
Battambang to Siem Reap & Angkor

Bayon, part of Angkor
What a day. Started at 0600 in Battambang with moto ride from our hotel to another hotel to buy boat ticket. Got to “Port of Battambang” about 0630. To get to the boat to Siem Reap we walked down steep steel steps maybe 100 -120 feet with too much space between each step and we were each carrying a large backpack. We climbed aboard the semi-crowded boat and waited for 0700. Shortly before then a police officer and someone else came down to ask to see our tickets. We were on the wrong boat. We moved to the next boat, which had a higher awning/roof – a very good thing. Plus, we were the only passengers! Off we went down the river and though we picked up a few passengers, it was never crowded. The boat was a “rooster tail” boat with propeller that stuck way out behind and when the speed picked up, there was a large plume of water about 10 feet high.

Angkor Wat in the morning
The river was fascinating. High banks most of the way, brown water all the way, and people on the shores most of the way. We cruised (so to say) though the backs of river people’s homes, some of which were boats, some hooches on stilts, some floating homes like on rafts, and some pretty nice. People were bathing in the river, fixing breakfast, fishing, and in general, carrying on with life. Children would run to the shore or stand on their boat homes and wave, shouting “HELLO”. One little boy about 3 years old ran to the shore, shouting and when we waved and shouted back he got all consternated and went stumbling backwards. We saw a great mud slide running from the top of the bank to the river and tiny boys hurtling naked and laughing down the the mud into the river. Reminded me of Chris and David when they were little, playing in the mud in our back yard.
As we got closer to Tonle Sap, the great lake and source of food in Cambodia, the river widened and the banks became less steep. Many river people along this section and more and more lotuses or some aquatic plants growing in the water. At several points they covered the entire river and there was nothing to do but fire on through, creating a brown and green rooster tail. Jeff looked back and said, “Man, we were jammin’ through them plants. It looked like a vegetarian with diarrhea.”

Someone’s home near Battambang
Finally we broke on through to the other side – to Tonle Sap. What a sight – huge brown lake with the shores out of sight. David and I were both deeply touched as the lake is so central to the life and well-being of Cambodia.
Got to dropping off point for Siem Reap and took a moto with a little trailer attached up the most amazing rutted road to Siem Reap. The ride was really bad – especially after a 5 hour boat ride – though David found the boat nothing but enjoyable. Got two rooms at Two Dragons Guest House. Very nice, very clean. $23 USD for a twin and single room with AC together first night, then went out and checked other places and negotiated down to $18 USD for the two rooms. Took off to Angkor Wat to see the sunset. The place to see the sunset was up seriously deteriorated and steep steps, but not bad for a millennium of use. When we got to the top, there was a second summit with an ancient temple on top. The steps up the temple were 12-16 inch risers with about 5-6 inch steps. It had just rained and was still sprinkling, so another interesting climb. The reward was immense, however. Again, David and I were deeply touched.
Tomorrow we head out at 0500 to watch sunrise. More later.

The street where our guesthouse was in Siem Reap
Siem Reap & Angkor
We’re staying at the Two Dragons GH, down a small dirt (muddy) lane off a side street in SR. There is no traffic and the people around are friendly. The GH is run by an American ex-pat who is out of town at the moment. Two Dragons is very clean, food excellent – but expensive, like $2.75 USD for pat si ew, and there are great photos on the walls. All in all a nice place.
We got some little battery-operated speakers in HK that are attached to portable CD or MP3 players. So here we are in this clean, AC room listening to Robert Earl Keen, Van Morrison, Willie, U2, Beethoven, Bach, and so on. It’s good, all right.
Except I had a long night with multiple multiple trips to bathroom. Still feeling bad in the morning, but, onward.
We got up at 0430 for an 0500 pickup by tuk-tuk to see sunrise over Angkor Wat.
– Angkor = the entire temple complex.
– Angkor Wat = most commonly pictured temple – 12th century – 5 towers on an elevated platform 1025×800 meters with towers and so on representing the universe.
– Bayon = Buddhist and Hindu ruin with huge faces set into the towers – most faces of the Boddhisatva Avaloketshivara (not sure spelling name)
Sunrise was beautiful. There were probably more than a 100 people there for sunrise, but no problem at all finding places where they were not. David and I walked up the long stone walkway across the moat through to the central building and on through to the other side. Stunning views in every direction. Walked past Angkor Wat to a smaller building same era and then through a cool and kind of eerie forest (though I sweated through my trousers – like the Hotel California guy in Bangkok) and back around to the front. By now the long night was catching up to me.
We went to one of the open air restaurants near the temple to use the restroom and have something to eat. The restroom, such as it was, was interesting. The water tank for use cleaning and flushing was shared by the two stalls. Made me think of the Seinfeld when Elaine was in the restroom and couldn’t get the woman next to her to pass over any toilet paper. In this case, however, the dipper was passed.
Bayon (Photo beginning of post) was next – a huge pile of ruins, with multiple towers, each with large faces carved into the blocks of stone. Many small corridors, cool and dark and nobody around.
By now I was weakening with abdominal pain, diarrhea, and dehydration – so I went back to the guesthouse and lay in the bed in a stupor – except of course, for those fast trips to the head. I thought David or someone was standing outside the room at the door, knocking with a quarter, but I was too feverish to answer and it was so hot. It turned out the overhead fan has an irregular clicking sound and it was all just a dream. David and Jeff got back in the afternoon. By then I was better, especially after David turned on the AC. David and I talked for awhile and he fell asleep, as did I.
The rain started later. This is my 3rd monsoon and I am so happy to be in it – though I hope it is not as heavy as the 2nd one in Vietnam, when water covered everything but the highest points and I got trench foot such that my feet were like two gross pink cantaloupes and I had to crawl everywhere for a week.

Musicians along a path in Angkor
So yeah, let it rain. LET IT RAIN. To be here with my son is a blessing beyond belief.
In Siem Reap
The past few days have been a true highlight of my life, despite the gastrointestinal issues: Traveling down the river to the Tonle Sap, being on the great lake itself, and now for the past three days, being in Angkor – and all with my son and my best friend. Photo: Angkor Wat
Angkor is breathtaking. For 25 years (since we first began our work with Cambodian refugees) I have wanted to see this and had begun to think, maybe I would not. So, to walk in and around Angkor has been like a dream – I mean it really felt like a dream – especially walking up the long roads leading to the structures and for most, hearing a drum in the distance and as we got closer, the sounds of other traditional Khmer instruments. Outside of most temples there is a group of 3-6 musicians sitting on a mat playing traditional music. All these musicians are disabled in some way, many from landmines – no legs, blind, arm gone – playing this haunting true trance music.
I watched them at weddings and ceremonies in Dallas over the years. The way it works is they come into the place where they will play, sit on a mat with their instruments, light incense, offer (to the muse?) cigarettes and whiskey, and begin to tune. And as they tune, they begin to come together and in a while, take off all together.

So we’re slow-walking through 1000 year old temples, monasteries, funerary structures, and the like, going deeper and deeper until the sounds of the Japanese and Korean
tourists are gone and there are only the sounds of the forest and our own occasional conversations. It’s hot here, but not bad in the shade and we’re slow-walking for sure through series of doorways through the centers of the structures, through narrow dark corridors, across jumbled piles of large sandstone blocks at the edges, and along dirt paths through the forest outside. And coming back, as we near the entrance, again, the sounds of the music.
Oh! I feel so good, so right
in my heart
in my life
in my soul
From Siem Reap we went to Phnom Penh, the capitol of Cambodia and that’s another story.















