Return to Asia (2005)

“Why don’t you go?” Leslie said. We were in First Chinese Barbeque in Richardson – Leslie, David, me, and we were talking about how it would be cool for David and me to go to Southeast Asia. And then we talked about Jeff (who fought with me in Vietnam), and then Leslie asked the question and we decided there in First BBQ that David and I would go to SE Asia and Jeff, too, if he wanted to go. I went outside to call Jeff and he said, sure, and so the trip began. Two months in Southeast Asia with my son and my best friend! This would be David’s first trip to his other homeland (Cambodia) and Jeff’s and my first return to Vietnam since the war!

(2023) A few days ago I read an account of someone who experienced a very nice interaction in Hanoi. That inspired me to revise and repost my Vietnam blog from the 2005 trip as several very nice things happened on that trip to Vietnam. This current post is an introduction to the Vietnam repost.

The best airfare deal we found was China Air out of Houston. We flew to Houston, then to Taipei for a few hours, and on to Hong Kong. In HK we stayed in the Cosmic Guesthouse which was in the Mirador Mansions a block up Nathan Road from Chungking Mansions. ~$30 USD for a triple room en suite. Mostly we just walked around being there.

Flew HK to Bangkok. Bus from airport to Khao San Road for 100 baht each ($2.50 USD). Left Jeff in a restaurant & David & I went off looking for a room. Found decent place on a quiet street (Merry V on Soi Buttri a block from KSR) with 3 beds, AC, & bathroom en suite for 600 Baht (about $15.50 US). Again, mostly just being there in Bangkok.

Bus Bangkok to Poipet on Thai-Cambodian border and then car to Battambang, a small city in western Cambodia. We stayed at the Angkor Hotel overlooking a muddy river for about $13. Nice motorcycle rides in countryside. Climbed up to Wat Banon.

From Battambang took a boat up the river to the great lake, Tonle Sap and across top of the lake to landing near Siem Reap. One hour tuk-tuk drive from landing to Siem Reap takes worst road prize – worse than out of Poipet. In SR we stayed at Two Dragons guesthouse ($10 double room for David and me, $8 single for Jeff), run by a man who now lives in Berkeley! Spent a couple of days wandering around Angkor. I got sick, but recovered in a day.

Backpacker bus Siem Reap to Phnom Penh where we stayed at Narin II guesthouse. Triple room with poor aircon for about $12. Visited Tuol Sleng and mass graves (It had never occurred to me that I would ever visit mass graves or torture chambers!). Phnom Penh was a menacing place at the time.

Bus to Cambodia-Vietnam border, then distinctly better bus from border into Saigon and Happy Tours office in Pham Ngu Lao area where most budget travelers stayed. Found a room at Ly-Ly Hotel on a backpacker alley for two nights ~$12 for a triple. Pham Ngu Lao is now a huge party scene.

Train (soft sleeper bunks in a compartment) Saigon to Danang for ~$30. Taxi from Danang train station to Hoi An for $8 USD. Stayed at Thanh Xuan hotel at edge of old area. Cost about $12 USD for triple room. AC worked okay, hot water good, internet bad, best banana pancakes of the entire trip. Motorcycles to a place where we fought in VN. Bikes around Hoi An. Train back to Saigon. Stayed at Ly-Ly for five nights.

Bus to Phnom Penh. Stayed at Indochine Hotel. Connected with David’s birth father.

Plane (Bangkok Airways) to Bangkok, then Thai International to Chiang Mai (day trip to Burma). Stayed at backpacker hotel for $5 twin, then a nicer place, Roong Ruang for a few nights, and back to Bangkok.

Flew Bangkok to Hong Kong. Stayed at Cosmic for three nights decompressing. Flew home.

Transportation included 747, airbus, other planes; backpacker bus, tourist bus, people’s bus, motorcycle, bicycle, train, bamboo train, boat, ferry, tuk-tuk, cyclo, taxi, walking.