The flight to Bangkok was only about 1/3 full and the airport was pretty much derted except for security people and pretty girls holding signs for taxis, etc. We’ve been through this airport many times at all hours of the day and night and have never seen it like this. Strange feeling.
We had initially planned on the usual slow procession through immigration and security, just staying at the airport for a few hours until morning, and then on to the guesthouse. It all went so fast, though that we called Suk 11 (pronounce souk) GH – they had a room and we took a taxi into town. We walked up a little lane, through a lot of plants and into the Suk 11 reception area – old teak walls, altars, tapestries, farming implements, big water pots and all sorts of assorteds everywhere. Much of the place is put together from traditional Thai houses, like the steep steps/ladder leading to the first floor. We were on the 3rd floor, past more stuff (including a large altar and improbably, an old rickshaw), along a wooden walkway between the walls of old houses (now GH rooms) and finally into our nice – not to mention aircon – room. Central Market (Dallas) sweet spicy Cajun mix and water for a 1 or 2 am dinner and fall on out. Photo: entrance to Suk 11
In the morning we went downstairs for breakfast of coffee, bread/rolls, papaya, pineapple, curd, preserves – sat with a young Australian couple and had a nice conversation.
We decided to look for another place. Suk 11 is hip and super nice, but the stairs were too much for us. I took off walking and came up with two contenders. Leslie and I talked and I went to register at the nicer place, but as I walked in, realized that there was a huge construction site next door, so I walked around to Soi 11 and registered at the slightly tatty Miami (pronounce mee ami). Lonely Planet says of the Miami, “Bearing the mark of the GI days in miore ways than its name (i.e., still many prostitutes there), the Miami has a strange down-and-out charm. The kathoey desk clerk, poolside lizards and lumpy beds …” So here we are, as happy as two geckos on a wall.
We walked out and got on the Skytrain to Central, where we went to a food court for a late lunch: ground pork with garlic and chilis (the same that we stunk up Stephan’s apartment with a year ago), rice with red and green curries, peanuts, water. Back to the hotel for a nap and then back out for dinner from street vendors: pork with chilis, pad Thai, satay, mango with sticky rice and coconut.
Leslie told me the prostitutes aren’t allowed to use the lift up from the lobby. It’s the stairs for them.
Slept well, except for, you know. Breakfast was an almond roll with peanut butter, mango, sticky rice … When I walked out on the street this morning around 0730, there were about 30 people (most westerners) sitting at little tables, drinking and having loud drunken and no doubt speed (ya-baa) conversations with one another and themselves and some looking pretty stuperous. Whew, seems like a tough lifestyle. Photo: inside Suk 11
Later we got BBQ chicken from a street vendor for Leslie for breakfast. saw 4 of the party peeps drinking beer and talking talking talking in the Miami coffee shop.
We made a Siam run – today being our first full speed ahead Thai food day: tom yum (hot and sour soup), green curry, pad Thai, Chiang Mai sausage, pad see euw, chicken satay, pork satay, mango, sticky rice (I know, it’s a sickness, it’s out of control, and I don’t care). Next day, green papaya salad, more noodles, more satay, on and on.
Tuesday, up earlysame thing for breakfast. Leslie went downstairs and witnessed a screaming desk clerk berating a guest. Taxi to airport and on to Vietnam.
This time around Bangkok was mostly a place to rest and to feast. We were tired and BK is incredibly difficult to get around in – it’s one of the world’s megacities, completely unplanned, and barely regulated. Over the years we’ve been to most of the temples and other sites, so rest, eat, more rest.